Comuna 13, Medellín

Comuna 13, also called San Javier, is a hillside district in western Medellín that went from one of the city's most violent areas in the early 2000s to one of its most visited, thanks to free outdoor escalators, murals and locally run tours. The best way to see it is with a guide from the community, who can explain the history behind the art; plan on a half day from San Javier metro station.

What Comuna 13 is

Medellín is divided into 16 comunas, or districts. Comuna 13, officially called San Javier, covers the steep western hills of the city and is home to around 160,000 people. Much of it grew up as informal housing, with brick homes built one on top of another up the slopes.

When visitors say "Comuna 13," they usually mean one small part of it: the neighborhood of Las Independencias, around Carrera 109, where the outdoor escalators, the densest murals, rooftop viewpoints and a busy strip of cafés, bars and souvenir stalls are found. The rest of the district is ordinary residential city, and it isn't set up for visitors.

The history, briefly

In the 1990s and early 2000s, Comuna 13 was caught in a struggle between urban guerrilla militias, paramilitary groups and the state. Residents lived with armed groups controlling their streets.

In 2002 the government launched a series of military and police operations in the area. In May, Operation Mariscal left people dead and injured, including minors. In October, Operation Orión, a 2-day offensive using soldiers, police, helicopters and armored vehicles, aimed to drive out the militias. Hundreds of people were detained. Critics and witnesses have said civilians were also targeted, and the operation remains controversial in Colombia today. Many families in the district are still seeking answers about relatives who disappeared during those years.

In the years that followed, Medellín invested heavily in poorer hillside districts, an approach often called "social urbanism," with libraries, schools, parks and public transport. In Comuna 13 that included Metrocable Line J, opened in 2008, and the outdoor escalators. At the same time, local hip-hop artists and collectives used music and murals to tell the community's own story. Groups such as Casa Kolacho, a hip-hop cultural center in the district, began offering graffiti tours that explain the history through the art, and those tours grew into one of the most popular things to do in the city.

The guides you'll meet are often residents who lived through this period. Listening to them is the best part of a visit.

The escalators

The outdoor escalators, officially the Sendero de conexión Independencias, opened on 25 December 2011. They replaced around 350 concrete steps on a slope of more than 45 degrees with 6 double sections of covered escalators, climbing a total of 384 meters. Before they were built, residents faced a long, steep climb every day. The escalators are public, part of the city's transport system and free to use.

A second stretch, built from 2020, links the area with the Media Ladera road viaduct higher up the hill. Along the way there are landings, viewpoints and small plazas where you can stop and look out over the city.

The murals

The walls around the escalators and the lanes off Carrera 109 are covered in murals. Many deal with memory, violence, hope and community, with images of children, nature and local figures, while others are simply joyful bursts of color. The art changes often, as artists paint new work and old pieces fade. For murals in other parts of the city, see our guide to Medellín's street art.

How to visit

With a guide

A tour led by people from the community is the best way to understand what you're looking at, and it puts money directly into the neighborhood. Tours usually start near San Javier metro station, include the ride or walk up to Las Independencias and take around 2 to 3 hours. Look for guides who live in the district, ask how long they've been running tours and book directly where you can. Many tours are offered in English as well as Spanish.

On your own

You can visit independently. Take metro Line B to San Javier station, the end of the line. Las Independencias is about 1.3 kilometers away and uphill, so most people take a short taxi or local bus to the bottom of the escalators. Stay on the main tourist route around Carrera 109 and the escalators, and don't wander far into the residential streets beyond it.

Getting there from El Poblado

From Poblado station, take Line A north to San Antonio, change to Line B and ride west to San Javier. Allow a good half hour or more for the metro part. See getting around Medellín for tickets and the Cívica card.

Tips for a respectful visit

• Remember that people live here. Ask before photographing residents or their homes, and keep your voice down in residential lanes.
• Buy something from local businesses: a coffee, a snack or art directly from the artists.
• Go in the morning or on a weekday if you can. Weekends can bring several thousand visitors a day, and the narrow lanes get crowded.
• Keep your phone and bag secure in the crowds, as you would anywhere busy.
• Wear good shoes. Even with the escalators, there are steep steps and slopes.